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| Aquascaping Showcase Place for aquarium pictures and fauna! |
March 22nd, 2008, 08:45 AM
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#1
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It Starts - again...
Well, I think I can officially say that this project is now underway. I will be tearing down my 72-gallon bowfront and setting up a new ADA 120-P.
The stand finally arrived last night. It was built by a friend down the street and looks pretty nice. My only concern right now is with the finish - it seems kinda rough and woodish... So I am going to go down to Home Depot in a few minutes and see if I can't find some kind of weather proof top coat.
I still also need to decide if I am going to hang the light from the ceiling (vaulted) or do bars like Toby's (but black). If I do the bars that will be another couple days of letting paint dry. Then I need to figure out how I am going to arrange the CO2 Reactor, etc...
So here is the equipment list:
Tank: ADA 120-P w/ Garden Mat
Stand: Custom built ADA copy
Filter: Eheim Pro 3e 2078
Light: Tek 4x 48-inch light- 216 watts of total light and a considerable downgrade from my last light (maybe)
Heater: Hydor 300 watt inline
CO2: 10lb Cylinder, AquaMedic Reactor 1000, Milwaukee Regulator and SMS122 Controller
Substrate: Aqua Soil II (5 bags) w/ Power Sand Special
Other: Self-adhesive black backing (easy to remove later)
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March 22nd, 2008, 09:10 AM
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#2
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Re: It Starts - again...
Dan that is a F^(%n sweeet looking stand sooo jealous right now...
I would suggest using black felt in the background instead of plastic because felt obsorbs all reflections and light.sued even better.
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March 22nd, 2008, 09:14 AM
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#3
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Real Name: Rob McGehee
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Re: It Starts - again...
To make the finish on the stand feel smoother, you will need to apply several coats of clear coat. Wet sand with an extremely fine grit sand paper between each coat.
And that is a really amazing set up!
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March 22nd, 2008, 10:34 AM
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#4
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Re: It Starts - again...
will adding more clear coat help avoid problems with water (seems like a dumb question, but there it is anyways)... I am reading that doing a different kind of clear coat over an existing clear coat is not a good idea - so I may just leave it as is for now and see how it goes...
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March 22nd, 2008, 10:47 AM
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#5
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Real Name: Rey
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Re: It Starts - again...
That is a very nice setup... can't wait to see it 'scaped and filled with plants!
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March 22nd, 2008, 11:28 AM
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#6
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Re: It Starts - again...
That is a very clean looking stand, I really like the look.
I doubt that you are Downgrading to a Tek from the Catalina, but we will see.
Can't wait for this ti start.
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March 22nd, 2008, 11:52 AM
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#7
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Real Name: Rob McGehee
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Re: It Starts - again...
"will adding more clear coat help avoid problems with water (seems like a dumb question, but there it is anyways)... I am reading that doing a different kind of clear coat over an existing clear coat is not a good idea"
It depends on the clear coat, but a typical furniture varnish will generally waterproof the wood. I refinish tables/furniture as a hobby and use the basic minwax clear varnish for most of what I do. The key to a smooth surface is to do many thin coats with light wet-sanding in between each coat.
You should use the same varnish that was originally used, if possible.
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March 22nd, 2008, 12:40 PM
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#8
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Re: It Starts - again...
I like your new floors also
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March 22nd, 2008, 01:38 PM
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#9
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Re: It Starts - again...
Hmmm - I am thinking of just leaving it as is for now - too much work and I want to get this thing setup. I poured a bunch of water on it and it seemed to survive it fine... time will tell.
So, I went ahead and cut my black backing, pealed the protection sheet back, wet with soap and water, placed against the back of the aquarium, then used my drivers license to work all of the air out. Here it is in images:
Here's the stuff:
http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/205417/product.web
Great thing is that you can remove it later - but in the mean time it provides a waterproof backing! ;D
You can see the back of the stand is not finished - and leaves water marks - No worries though, since that will all be hidden...
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March 22nd, 2008, 01:43 PM
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#10
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Re: It Starts - again...
Ya - the floors was a whole other fiasco. I am happy with the end result though...
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March 22nd, 2008, 02:02 PM
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#11
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Administrator
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Re: It Starts - again...
Decision was made on bars for hanging the lights - so they have been bought, measured, bent, cut and are now drying in the yard with the first coat of paint...
Yes, a busy day...
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March 22nd, 2008, 02:03 PM
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#12
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Administrator
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Re: It Starts - again...
Next, I would like to modify my AM 1000 Reactor to take a 3/4-inch barb instead of reducing to 1/2-inch. This really kills the flow on my canister and now that I will only have one running the whole system, I really don't want to slow things down too much...
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March 22nd, 2008, 02:06 PM
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#13
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Re: It Starts - again...
Wow - off to a wonderful start - I'll be watching this one for sure! Awesome aquarium backing - I'll be getting some myself!
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March 22nd, 2008, 02:41 PM
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#14
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Re: It Starts - again...
All I can say is wow Dan. You're certainly putting together a dream setup. Just my 2 cents about the reactor, instead of installing it inline with your canister filter you could just order an Eheim hobby pump that uses 1/2" barbs. They run silent, are Eheim quality, and you'd avoid killing the flow of your canister. Not to mention you wouldn't have to retrofit your reactor. You could mount it inside your stand's cabinet. Of course you'd need to order another set of lily pipes. Heck you could even install a hydor heater inline on your hobby pump along with the reactor. Just something to consider.
The Eheim 1250 pumps 320 gph, and has a 1/2" output. More than enough to get the job done:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...04&pcatid=4604
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March 22nd, 2008, 03:04 PM
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#15
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Administrator
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Re: It Starts - again...
Thanks - I am going to take the reactor down to Ace Hardware and see if I can find a barb that screw into the existing top and bottom pieces of the reactor first. I forgot to mention this setup will also have a 300w Hydor inline heater as well ;D
If I can't make them both work in line off my filter, I will perhaps use another smaller Eheim canister I have laying around to run them, same concept as your suggestion...
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